Pre-Con

First Contact

    • Plan a site visit

    • Meet the owner

    • Establish a Professional Impression

    • Safety Gear On

    • Bring comprehensive build plans, designs, schedules, and budgets to answer any questions

    • Introduce ourselves

    • Offer a clear outline and agenda to the client

    • Take note of any client concerns and information

    • Exchange phone info and email for proper communication lines

    • Emphasize my project leadership and management experience as well as some of my unique skill-sets to establish a relationship and re-assurance I will be under close mentorship as well as representing Nathie Kazkoff Construction.

    • Determine best site access for us And material transport or any need to modify paths

    • Establish best storage locations for materials and gear / orange box security

    • Determine the parking situation

    • Determine access to utilities/bathroom

    • Determine site access times and agreeable working hours

    • Set expectations of frequency of visits and comms as well as proper chain of command

    • Discuss how unforeseen circumstances will be handled

Safety

    • Walk the site

    • Establish First aid kit

    • Establish fire extinguisher location

    • look for any powerlines or pain points in access

    • Establish safe walkways free from trip hazzards

    • Fall protection gear

    • Reflective tape or markings

    • Safety harness

    • Chemical spill kit

    • Emergency escape routes map

    • Warning signs for hazardous areas

    • Electrical safety equipment

    • Safety barriers or cones

    • Flashlight or headlamp

    • Personal emergency alarm

    • Ensure that the site is level and clear of debris. Given the slope of the land, careful consideration must be given to water runoff and stability.

    • Footing Assessment: Verify that the existing concrete footings are level, stable, and appropriately spaced for your design. You might need to adjust the footings to accommodate the size and weight of the sauna and deck structures.

    • Deck Layout: Begin by outlining the perimeter of the deck, taking into account the locations of the footings. The trees may provide natural shade, but ensure that the deck structure does not damage their root systems.

    • Integration with Nature: Design the deck to fit organically into the landscape. The trees can be used as natural focal points or privacy screens. Frank Loyd Wright

    • Drainage: The slope and existing trees suggest that you'll need a good drainage plan to prevent water from pooling around the structures.

    • Material Transport: Plan for the transportation of materials down to the site, considering the slope may make it challenging.

    • Construction: Given the uneven and sloped ground, start with a sturdy frame for the deck, which will likely require different lengths of posts to create a level surface.

    • Finalize design layouts and ensure they conform to zoning laws and building codes

    • Obtain necessary permits

    • Schedule inspections as required

    • Plan for material delivery and storage

    • Develop a timeline and workflow for the project stages

    • Establish safety protocols and environmental protection measures

    • Set up a budget tracking and management system

    • Concrete footings already in place for structural support

    • Sloped site requires careful consideration for water runoff and stability

    • Proximity to trees means root systems must be protected and considered in the layout

    • Use of stainless steel fasteners to avoid corrosion with cedar shakes

    • Appropriate spacing and fastening techniques for cedar to accommodate wood movement

    • Sealing and insulation around windows to maintain thermal efficiency

    • Safety clearance for the woodstove installation

    • Epoxy-coated wood composite for areas exposed to moisture

    • Transportation of materials to the sloped site

    • Verify the level and stability of the existing footings

    • Clear the site of debris and prepare for construction

    • Implement soil erosion and sediment control measures

    • Assess the depth required for the foundation holes to extend below the frost line to prevent shifting during freeze-thaw cycles.

    • Consider the slope and how it will affect the depth of each hole—those uphill will be deeper relative to the slope than those downhill. Nathie already estimated the degrees of each footing at the down-sloped end of the deck.

    • Construction Phase

    • Begin with the framework and structural supports for the deck

    • Proceed with installation of the sauna, hot tub, and cold plunge

    • Ensure proper installation of woodstove and ventilation

    • Finalize with the finishing touches including cedar bar and wood storage areas

    • Quality Control and Finishing

    • Regularly inspect construction quality

    • Test all features for functionality

    • Apply finishes to all wood surfaces for protection and aesthetics

    • Documentation and Review

    • Document the construction process for legal and promotional purposes

    • Review each phase upon completion to ensure no detail is overlooked

Framing Notes

Considering these technical specs of our deck, will it be structurally sufficient to hold a 10x10 foot sauna with a heavy stove and wood framed small building as well as 4-5 people?

Here are the specs:

Height of level (top of decking) 36′′ Max. joist span 80 1/2′′ Max. joist cantilever 14′′ Max. beam span 82 1/8′′ Max. beam cantilever 6′′ Footing depth 36′′ Footing area (ea.) 9 1/2 â€32 Designed live load 100 lb/ft2 Designed dead load 20 lb/ft2

To determine whether your deck is structurally sufficient to support a 10x10 foot sauna with a heavy stove, wood-framed building, and 4-5 people, let's analyze the specifications you've provided:

  1. Designed Live Load (100 lb/ft²): This is the weight of everything that could be added to the deck, like people, furniture, and in this case, your sauna and stove. This is a standard live load capacity for residential decks.

  2. Designed Dead Load (20 lb/ft²): This represents the weight of the deck structure itself, including the boards, joists, beams, and any other permanent fixtures.

  3. Max Joist Span (80 1/2 inches): This indicates the maximum distance between joists. The closer the joists are, the more weight they can support.

  4. Max Beam Span (82 1/8 inches): This is the maximum distance the main supporting beams can span without additional support. This is a critical factor in supporting the weight of your sauna.

  5. Footings: The depth and size of your footings (36 inches deep, 9 1/2 x 32 inches area each) are significant as they provide the foundation. This seems adequate for typical deck loads, but the additional weight of a sauna needs to be factored in.

Based on these specs:

  • A 10x10 foot sauna will occupy 100 square feet. Assuming the maximum designed live load (100 lb/ft²), the deck should theoretically support up to 10,000 pounds (not accounting for the weight of the deck itself) in this area.

  • The weight of a small wood-framed building, a heavy stove, and 4-5 people would need to be calculated and added to this total. The weight of a typical wood stove can vary greatly, so this will be an important figure to determine.

Key Considerations:

  • Distribution of Weight: The weight of the sauna and stove should be evenly distributed across the joists and beams. If the sauna is concentrated on a specific area of the deck, it could exceed the maximum span capabilities of the joists or beams.

  • Local Building Codes: These often dictate the minimum requirements for deck construction. Your local codes may have specific regulations for structures like saunas on decks.

  • Professional Assessment: Given the specialized nature of this addition (a sauna with a heavy stove), it's highly recommended to consult with a structural engineer or a qualified deck builder. They can provide a more precise assessment based on your deck's specific construction and the exact weight of the sauna and its components.

Would using 2x12 construction in the framing and support beams make this more structurally sound then?

Upgrading to 2x12 lumber for the framing and support beams of your deck could indeed enhance the structural integrity, especially when considering the addition of a heavy load like a sauna with a stove. Here's how using 2x12s could be beneficial:

  1. Increased Load Capacity: 2x12s can support more weight compared to smaller dimensional lumber like 2x8s or 2x10s. This is due to their larger cross-sectional area, which provides greater strength and stiffness.

  2. Longer Span Capabilities: 2x12s can span greater distances than smaller joists. This means fewer support posts may be needed, which can be advantageous in terms of design flexibility and space utilization under the deck.

  3. Reduced Deflection: Thicker joists, like 2x12s, will have less deflection (bending) under load. This is particularly important for a deck supporting a heavy, static load like a sauna, as it ensures a more stable and level surface.

  4. Enhanced Durability: Larger joists are also more resilient to environmental stressors and potential wear over time, contributing to the overall longevity of the deck.

  5. Safety Margin: Even if current calculations suggest that smaller joists might be adequate, using 2x12s adds an extra margin of safety, which is especially valuable given the weight and significance of the load.

However, it's important to consider:

  • Cost Implications: Larger lumber like 2x12s will generally be more expensive.

  • Additional Weight: The increased weight of 2x12s might require adjustments to the foundation or footing design to ensure they can support the extra weight of the deck structure itself.

  • Proper Installation: As with any deck construction, ensuring that the lumber is properly installed, spaced, and supported is crucial for safety and longevity.

15 concrete footings to work with already buried and installed

With 15 concrete footings already installed, you have a solid foundation to work with for your deck construction. The existing footings can significantly influence the design and layout of your deck, especially considering the addition of a sauna. Here’s how to proceed:

  1. Assess Footing Locations and Condition:

    • Check the positioning of each footing to see how they align with your deck design.

    • Ensure the footings are in good condition, are of adequate size, and are deep enough to extend below the frost line.

  2. Determine Footing Capacity:

    • Evaluate the load-bearing capacity of each footing. This depends on their size and depth.

    • Confirm that they can support the additional weight of 2x12 framing and the sauna.

  3. Deck Layout:

    • Plan the deck framing to coincide with the footing locations.

    • The placement of beams and joists should align with the footings for optimal support.

  4. Post Installation:

    • Install 4x4 or 6x6 posts on the footings for the deck frame. The size of the posts will depend on the deck's height and the load it needs to support.

    • Ensure posts are securely anchored to the footings.

  5. Beam Sizing and Placement:

    • With 2x12 joists, determine the appropriate beam size and placement based on the span between the footings.

    • Beams should be sized to carry the load of the deck and the sauna, with consideration for the spacing of the footings.

  6. Joist Layout:

    • Plan the joist layout, ensuring joists are spaced correctly for the size and weight of the deck and sauna.

    • Joist hangers can be used for attaching joists to the beams.

  7. Sauna Placement:

    • Position the sauna in a location where the footings provide adequate support.

    • If the sauna's weight is not evenly distributed over the footings, additional support may be necessary.

  8. Decking and Finishing:

    • Once the frame is complete, proceed with decking installation.

    • Apply finishes or treatments as necessary for protection and aesthetics.

  9. Building Codes and Permits:

    • Ensure the deck design, including the use of existing footings, complies with local building codes.

    • If modifications to the footings are necessary, they should be done in accordance with these codes.

The sauna will be centered and towards the back edge of the deck. Right over the center thickest beam and support systems. This will provide proper durability and support.

Positioning the sauna centrally and towards the back edge of the deck, directly over the thickest center beam and support system, is a sound strategy. This placement will ensure that the sauna is supported by the strongest part of the deck structure, which is crucial given its significant weight. Here's how to proceed with this plan:

  1. Center Beam Support:

    • Ensure the center beam is robust, ideally made of laminated 2x12s or similar, to support the heavy load of the sauna.

    • The beam should be directly supported by sturdy posts that are anchored into the concrete footings.

  2. Additional Framing Support:

    • Reinforce the area around the sauna with additional framing. This might include extra joists or blocking between joists to distribute the weight more evenly.

    • Ensure that the framing directly beneath the sauna is aligned with the footings for maximum support.

  3. Footings Alignment:

    • Verify that the footings beneath the sauna area are positioned to provide optimal support. They should align with the center beam and additional framing.

    • If necessary, modify the footing placement or add additional footings to ensure adequate support.

  4. Sauna Placement and Installation:

    • Center the sauna over the beam and ensure it is positioned evenly to distribute its weight across the support structure.

    • Secure the sauna to the deck structure, if required, to prevent movement.

  5. Deck Surface and Access:

    • Ensure the deck surface is level and stable around the sauna area.

    • Plan for easy access to the sauna, considering door swing and path of entry.

  6. Ventilation and Drainage:

    • Ensure adequate ventilation under the deck, especially in the sauna area, to prevent moisture buildup.

    • Plan for effective drainage to avoid water pooling around or under the sauna.

Vycor tape and weatherproofing of the framing.

Vycor tape (or similar self-adhering flashing tapes) plays a crucial role in the weatherproofing process of deck framing, particularly in protecting against water damage and ensuring the longevity of the structure. Here's how Vycor tape and other weatherproofing measures contribute to deck framing:

  1. Protection Against Moisture:

    • Vycor tape is typically used to shield the tops of wooden deck joists, beams, and ledgers from moisture. By covering these areas, the tape prevents water from seeping into the wood, which can cause rot, mold, and structural weakening over time.

  2. Application:

    • The tape is self-adhesive and is applied directly to the top of the deck's framing elements. It should be applied to clean, dry wood for optimal adhesion.

    • It's important to ensure that the tape covers the entire top surface of each joist and beam and that it wraps over the edges slightly for comprehensive protection.

  3. Compatibility with Decking Material:

    • Vycor tape is compatible with most decking materials, including wood, composite, and metal. It acts as a barrier between the wood and the fasteners used to attach the decking, reducing the risk of corrosion and decay.

  4. Sealing Fastener Penetrations:

    • When fasteners, like screws or nails, penetrate the deck's surface, they can create entry points for water. Vycor tape helps seal these penetrations and prevent moisture ingress.

  5. Longevity and Durability:

    • By protecting the wood from constant exposure to water, Vycor tape significantly extends the life of the deck framing. This is especially important in climates with frequent rain, snow, or high humidity.

  6. Additional Weatherproofing Measures:

    • Beyond using Vycor tape, other weatherproofing steps include using treated lumber for framing, ensuring proper deck slope for water runoff, and applying sealants or stains to the wood for additional moisture protection.

  7. Maintenance and Inspection:

    • Regular maintenance, including inspecting and replacing the tape as needed, ensures ongoing protection. Any damage to the tape should be repaired promptly to prevent water damage.

  8. Building Codes and Best Practices:

    • Adhering to local building codes and best practices for deck construction, including weatherproofing, is essential for safety and longevity.

For the various Simpson ties, hangers and hardware etc, we will install them with Tico nails. Hot dipped galvanized for proper rust proof correct? Mostly 1" for the Simpson ties and 2" for the deeper connections. Correct?

Using Tico nails, specifically hot-dipped galvanized ones, is a good choice for installing hardware like Simpson ties in deck construction. Here's a breakdown of why this is appropriate and the correct sizes to use:

  1. Hot-Dipped Galvanized Tico Nails:

    • Hot-dipped galvanization provides a thick, durable coating of zinc that protects the nail from corrosion and rust, which is essential for outdoor and deck applications where the hardware is exposed to the elements.

    • This type of galvanization is more robust than electro-galvanized or other coatings, making it suitable for environments where moisture is a concern.

  2. Nail Sizes:

    • 1-Inch Nails: These are typically used for thinner, lighter-duty connectors. They are appropriate for most standard Simpson ties where the metal isn't very thick and the nail doesn't need to penetrate deeply into the wood.

    • 2-Inch Nails: These are suitable for deeper connections where more holding power is needed. They're used in situations where the nail needs to penetrate through a thicker piece of metal and still anchor securely into the wood.

  3. Compatibility with Simpson Ties:

    • It's important to use the nail size recommended by Simpson for each specific type of tie. The size and type of nail can affect the tie's load capacity.

    • Simpson provides detailed information about the appropriate fasteners for each of their products. This information is crucial to ensure structural integrity.

  4. Installation Considerations:

    • Ensure that the nails are driven straight and fully seated into the connectors and wood.

    • Avoid splitting the wood when nailing near the ends or edges.

  5. Building Codes and Standards:

    • Adhere to local building codes regarding fasteners and hardware for deck construction.

    • Using the correct nails as per the manufacturer’s specifications is often a requirement in building codes.

As for the framing and for extra tight connections I will use common 16 penny framing nails correct?

Galvanized. Maybe a few Ring Shanks due to the slope.

Using 16-penny framing nails is indeed a standard and effective choice for deck framing and ensuring tight connections. Here’s why they are suitable for this purpose:

  1. Size and Strength:

    • 16-penny nails (also referred to as 16d nails) are about 3 ½ inches long. This length makes them ideal for framing work, where nails need to penetrate through several inches of wood to create a strong joint.

    • Their thickness and length provide a strong hold, which is essential in the construction of a deck frame that must support significant weight and withstand various stresses.

  2. Material and Coating:

    • For deck framing, it's preferable to use nails that are either hot-dipped galvanized or have a similar protective coating, especially if you are using pressure-treated lumber. This coating helps prevent corrosion and rusting that can weaken the nail over time.

    • In corrosive environments or with certain types of treated lumber, stainless steel nails might be recommended.

  3. Type of Nail:

    • For most framing applications, common nails are used. However, ring-shank nails or spiral nails can be used for added grip strength, which can be beneficial in deck construction to resist pulling out or loosening over time.

  4. Application:

    • 16d nails are typically used for connecting framing elements such as joists, beams, and posts.

    • They are also used for attaching ledgers to the main structure, provided that this is in line with local building codes and best practices.

  5. Building Codes and Best Practices:

    • Always adhere to local building codes when selecting nails for deck construction. These codes may specify the type and size of nail for different parts of the deck.

    • Follow the best practices for nail spacing and pattern to ensure the integrity of the connections.

  6. Tool Use:

    • When using 16d nails, a framing nailer can significantly speed up the process, but a hammer can also be used, especially in tighter spots or where precision is more important.

In terms of the slope involved, there is probably a 4 foot incline in the hill and it will slope down the 16' sections of the deck. Besides the extra deep footing depth towards the bottom of the slope, do we add any other supports to make sure the deck does not collapse?

Building a deck on a slope with a 4-foot incline over 16 feet presents specific challenges that need to be addressed to ensure structural stability and safety. Here are some additional support considerations beyond deeper footings:

  1. Additional Posts and Beams:

    • On the lower side of the slope, where the deck is higher off the ground, consider adding more posts and beams for extra support.

    • The added posts should be anchored securely into the ground and may need to be longer to reach the higher elevation of the deck.

  2. Cross-Bracing:

    • Install cross-bracing between posts, especially in the areas where the deck is highest off the ground. This helps stabilize the structure against lateral movement.

  3. Stronger and/or Larger Footings:

    • On the lower side of the slope, use larger or stronger footings to bear the additional load and provide stability.

    • The footings should be designed to accommodate not just the vertical load but also any lateral pressure.

  4. Drainage Considerations:

    • Ensure proper drainage around the deck, particularly on the sloped side. Water accumulation can weaken the foundation over time.

    • Installing French drains or similar systems can help manage water flow and protect the deck's foundation.

  5. Railing and Safety Features:

    • On the downhill side, where the deck may be significantly elevated, ensure robust railing systems for safety.

    • The railing should meet all local code requirements for height and strength.

  6. Professional Assessment:

    • Given the complexity of building on a slope, it's advisable to consult with a structural engineer or a professional deck builder.

    • They can provide specific recommendations based on the slope, soil type, and local building codes.

  7. Local Building Codes:

    • Adhere to local building codes and regulations, as they may have specific requirements for decks built on slopes.

  8. Regular Inspections and Maintenance:

    • Periodically inspect the deck, especially the supports and foundation, to ensure ongoing stability and address any issues promptly.

Please list all relevant Seattle Building Codes for this deck so far. Using this last bunch of recent info we've been compiling.

Based on the information provided from the Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections and the Seattle Building Code, here are some relevant building codes and regulations for constructing a deck in Seattle:

  1. Permit Requirements:

    • A permit is required for a deck that is more than 18 inches above the ground.

    • Decks that are more than 8 feet above the ground, include long beams, or are located in an environmentally critical area (ECA), such as landslide-prone areas, require an addition or alteration construction permit.

    • https://www.seattle.gov/sdci/permits/common-projects/decks

  2. Deck Placement and Size:

    • If the deck is more than 36 inches above the ground, it counts toward the lot coverage percentage, which varies by zone. In residential zones, the total coverage is limited to 35% of the lot (for lots 5,000 square feet or larger) or 1,000 square feet plus 15% of the lot area (for lots smaller than 5,000 square feet).

    • Decks more than 18 inches above the ground can’t be built within 20 feet of the front property line, or within 5 feet of either side property line in residential zones. They also cannot be within 25 feet of the rear property line (or within the rear 20% of lot depth, whichever is less).

  3. Environmental Critical Areas:

    • If the deck is in or near an ECA, a pre-application site visit is required before applying for any construction permit. This will determine the type of permit your project is eligible for.

  4. Professional Assistance:

    • While deck drawings rarely require a professional’s stamp, it is advised to consult with a professional, especially if the deck is in or near an ECA.

  5. Building Code Adoption: